Part of me wonders why π.O. didn’t just change his t-shirt. I’m reminded of that strange scene in the John Carpenter film, They Live (1988), where construction worker Frank refuses to wear Johnny Nada’s ‘reality’ sunglasses. The audience is stunned by the dragged-out street brawl. Why does it last so long? Why is he so contrary? Why won’t he wear the glasses? Just put on the bloody glasses! Just change your bloody shirt! (Just change your bloody ideology!)
America may have invented the dirty t-shirt, but the t-shirt itself has been around since the European Middle Ages (according to what I’ve read in Vogue). It began as an undergarment in a ‘T’ shape and was considered easy to clean. Advances in knitting technology in the nineteenth century meant that the garment could be mass-produced and made to fit tighter to the body. British sailors wore them under their uniforms; by the end of the century, their navy had allowed them to wear the shirts as outerwear while working on deck. The t-shirt as outerwear revolution had begun, with working-class men soon wearing their t-shirts on the weekend (a calendrical designation that was another recent revolution). Half a century later, Hollywood made the t-shirt part of the iconic costume of libidinous, counter-cultural males (A Place in the Sun, The Wild One, Rebel Without a Cause). From the 1960s, screen-printing technologies made the t-shirt a blank slate for slogans and graphics, ranging in theme from the political to the humorous to the advertorial to the abstract (the iconic Smiley ideogram t-shirt springs to mind, as does the I HEART NY tee).
For the cynic, the pursuit of personal freedom of expression feels a little like the pursuit of a t-shirt. Freedom of expression can seem a received form, a mode prone to marketese and cliché. If everyone dresses like Marlon Brando’s Wild One, who has expressed themselves through dress? Nothing is less free than free verse, to put it another way. For me, the t-shirt also makes me think about freedom of expression, though I’m less concerned with its production-line aspects. What we have in a t-shirt as opposed to, say, a button-up shirt or a three-piece suit, is a thin veil for what is under the shirt. The t-shirt maintains its origin as underwear in its direct contact with the body. One doesn’t need to wear anything under a t-shirt. What is under a t-shirt? All sorts of wonderful things: necklaces, collarbones, breasts, nipples, skin, hair. And under all that, ribs, lungs, a (hopefully) beating heart, guts (hopefully) not too full of shit. I love the ambiguity of the t-shirt: conformist counter-culture one way, with affective resistance, if you don’t wash, coming around the other side. On the other hand: what is comfortable, allowing for relatively free movement of the body as well as relative flattening of socio-economic status offers a site of incredible gentrification. I’m not sure what the most expensive t-shirt in the world is at the moment, but I do know that it’s possible to spend just south of $7,000 dollars on the relaxed-fit printed leather Bottega Veneta tee.
Yet the t-shirt still bears the capacity to shock and offend. While preparing this review, I heard about a man who was asked to remove his ‘offensive’ Justice for Palestine t-shirt while attempting to board a Virgin Australia flight out of Brisbane. Most especially, as π.O. shows, the t-shirt offends when the body directly marks the t-shirt – when it smells, when it isn’t clean. When it bears grime and stench, material pleasure becomes a sensorium of displeasure for (potential) others, depending, of course, on who one’s fellow travellers might be.